Friday, August 27, 2010

Too Cool

After completing the trunk modifications I needed to modify the front racks to reduce the number cells and provide space for the air conditioning. Unfortunately during the first stages of the conversion I focused on getting batteries in and soon found I didn't have room for the AC. Wanting to make sure this didn't happen again, I decided to get the AC in and then see how many cells I could fit afterwards.

The first and probably hardest step determining how power the compressor. My first option was to modify the compressor to use a standard V belt. In this case it was easy to create a main pulley to attach to the motor. However I determined, after dismantling the compressor, it was going to be very difficult. My second option was to find/make a pulley that could use the same style of serpentine belt the compressor used. I opted for this method. I used the original pulley which accepted a spline shaft. The ADC 9" motor has a much smaller, round keyed shaft. I bought a 3/4" hub from tractor supply. I was able to get my uncle to turn down the hub and we then pressed it inside the original pulley with a hydraulic press. We ran a weld around one end to make sure it could turn inside. With this done it was just a matter of fabricating a frame that mounted the compressor and tensioner to the motor frame.

Here you can see completed setup. Reusing the tensioner instead of trying to make the compressor adjustable is the best route. The tensioner keeps the belt at the ideal tension as it stretches with age. This setup should be maintenance free for years.


Here is a shot from the other side.


I ordered from Jegs and got a Gates belt K060345. This is actually a bit over 35" and is the six v serpentine style belt used originally, just much shorter. This was stocked and I got a "free" hat. Considering their "free" shipping had a $5 handling fee, I'm not sure which one of the two I actually got free.

Here is a 12v functional test video. It's not nearly as noisy as this little camera picks up.

After everything was functional I needed to charge the AC system. The system had been opened for months, and even if it had only been opened for a day or so you need to do a lengthy evac process. An oil based vacuum pump is required which I bought one from Harbor Freight. You'll also need an AC manifold set which I also got from Harbor Freight.

The process is fairly simple. First connect the high(red) and low(blue) side hoses to the A/C system. The sizes are different so you can't accidentally connect the wrong one. This manifold set has a yellow hose and two spots where the yellow hose can connect, one is open and the other is a pressure fitting. Connect the yellow hose to the open side and then to the vacuum pump. Turn on the vacuum pump and then open the high and low valves. Let this run for several hours, the longer the better. The pump will get the system down fairly quickly, but it won't remove all the moisture this fast. You must leave it running to remove the moisture (3-5 hrs will do it). Once complete, first close the high and low valves, then turn off the vacuum pump.

You'll need to check the service manual to determine how much refrigerant should go into the system. You'll also need to replace any oil that was lost. There are refrigerants that contain oil, but it's not enough for a complete recharge so you'll need to do the math and figure out what you need.

The recharge process is simple. Read and follow the directions on the can first and foremost. Disconnect the vacuum pump and connect your refrigerant. The can should be shaken during the entire process. Open the valve on the can, then open the LOW side ONLY. Never open the high side valve while recharging. You'll hold the can upright and rotate 90 degrees every few seconds again given the can a good shake frequently. You'll want to make sure there is enough refrigerant and oil in the system before turning on the A/C system (again consult your service manual). Most systems should have a low pressure safety switch to prevent this. With the A/C system on max you'll notice the low side gauge drop as it compresses the gas to the high side. As it pulls from the low side more refrigerant from the can will pass into the system. As the can empties it slows down so be patient 5-15 minutes per can. Repeat this process to add oil and more refrigerant as needed. When complete close the low side valve, then close the refrigerant valve. The high and low side connectors can be popped off easily at this point, but when you disassemble the manifold some gases will escape so do this in a well ventilated area so you don't breath it in.

That was it, now I have some really cold air coming out of my EV!

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi, Awesome build but I just wanted to point out that the tensioner is the wrong way round. Those tensioners are designed to press on the back of the belt not pull up on the running face of the belt. Probably won't make any difference but figured I'd let you know anyway...

Brian said...

There are two types. Outside tensioners will have a smooth pulley to press against the flat side of the belt. This presses from the inside and has splines to match the belt.